First thing first.

1 : Target Boost/Power – only then one can walk to the desired power.
Let say u want 100hp on wheel, then the mod/cost will differ

2 : minor area that need attentions :

a – good oil filter. never settle for cheap oil filter. good one cost more but worth every single penny.

b-
good water-pump. cool down head/block – prevent less heat soaked to the
engine. less heat = more power [ not to confused with engine operating
temp]. If engine for high revv or racing, take out the thremostat. Why?
less restriction to the water passage

c – get high powered
radiator fan. constant on the radiator fan – cool down the engine. buy
another one spare. mine dead after 6 month [ori kancil] due to contant
on. noted the engine temp always below 1/2. if you can find aluminium
radiator [L9] or other make, take IT!!

d – head gasket [
original]. if so happen ur head taken up, see the ori head gasket.
clean it up with #600 sand paper. clean the surface. wash with petrol a
bit – do not soak in petrol. dry clean. apply good silicon gasket and
pressure it to the head open installation. make sure leave the engine
for a day to fully “mate” the block n head

e -flywheel . for
nomal use road, reduce it to 3/4 of the original weight. i think its
about 9kg. i skimmed to about 4.5 kgs – for drag purpose oni.. pure
drag better use steel (buat sendiri). original flywheel do not over
skimmed, nanti crack bila high revv. custom made steel can solve the
thing.

f – spark plug, plug cable. another hot issue. please
stay with original cable plug . i reckon it good for 100hp. original
plug edi good enuf. NGK-R or ND is good. DO NOT Adjust the GAP if got
problem, instread get NEW ONE! Silap bikin, piston pecah, pasal core
cair and hit the piston… Standard L2 ignition is good enuf unless you
using after market ECU like haltech, microtech etc.

g- earth
grounding cable. DO IT!! one of the cheapest mod.. so far none claim it
increase HORSEPOWER [dyno proven] but your electrical devices works
better. engine got better response because equal electrical power
distribution. it do makes sense …RM40-90 for 6 point.

h – another hot issue. Use SYNT OIL. It do increase HP [dyno proven]. after all, dalam 10,000 km baru tukar lagik.

i
- please WARM up the engine fully about 5-10 minutes before tekan pedal
for high revv. Logik? let the oil circulate around the engine, and the
engine have its OPTIMAL operating heat!! kalu Blow Off Valve and turbo
timer being use for a reason, this is the same as well

j – for
stock downpipe, open it up. buang sarang lebah (careful – its poisonic)
.. its good for 1-2 hp. try it and u feel the turbo spool a bit
quicker. custom made downpipe and dumpipe. the bigger dumpipe (bukan
downpipe) the lesser the backpressure and faster turbo spool .. 1-1.2
inch for L2 standard or mild mod is ok. for downpipe, 2-2.25 inch is
OPTIMAL for low to mid high boost (0.7-1.5 bar)

k – cold air
intake. hmm , many ppl heard of it. but still do the mistake. for low
or standard to mid high boost, usage of the standard air filter box is
appreciated. but make sure the front intake having a direct under the
front grill hose, beli PVC dari kedai hardware and sambung.. every 2
degree decrease in air-temp, an increase of 1 % in power.

l -
intercooler. selagi boost tak tinggi, there ’s no economic reason to
change it. front mount, yes look nice but high cost. but are you sure
that it will have the OPTIMAL power for the RM you paid? guess what?
long piping, more hotter the air becomes, more power loss incurred. you
may feel that your car is powerful but i believe its more towards
PHYCHOLOGICAL effect. intake mouth and exit mouth of the intercooler
must be the same size.2 ” recommended for mid to high boost. VR4
intercooler is a NO NO. FREE FLOW intercooler is the best. 4E-FTE have
a good intercooler (ARC the best — mana nak cari???)

m -
throttle body ? another debated question. best low to mid boost, leave
it as it is. if got extra RM, go and rebore 1mm out of the throttle
body. its very 2x cost effective for more free flow air …